Balmain Spring 2011
Christophe Decarnin is starting to walk down an expected route–and that could prove hazardous without a yield sign. The salon of the Grand Hotel, with pounding music switching from Rachmanunoff to Frank Sinatra’s “My Way” to the Sex Pistols ushering the arrival of a punk revival. The results? Leather bustiers covered with safety pins, trademark … Continue reading “Balmain Spring 2011”
Balenciaga Spring 2011
The seventies isn’t the only recurring theme on the spring runways. A masculine take on femininity has been wafting its way through Milan and now Paris, and at Balenciaga Nicolas Ghesquière went that exact route–albeit toned down somewhat to what he called a “boyish” aesthetic. Putting Balenciaga back in touch with the street, the results … Continue reading “Balenciaga Spring 2011”
Dries Van Noten Spring 2011
Citing the inspiration of the 20th-century Belgian artist Jef Verheven, best known for his interpretations of light, color and landscape, as a starting point, Dries Van Noten sensuously captured a lightness in mood and spirit with a collection that was far ranging. A painterly effect was achieved on ombré prints thanks to a soft color … Continue reading “Dries Van Noten Spring 2011”
Hoss Intropia Fall 2010
With everyone from Gilles Mendel of J. Mendel to Erdem of Erdem Moralioglu having designed ballet inspired collections for Spring 2011, it seems like the perfect time to put the spotlight on Spanish label Hoss Intropia which was founded over 15 years ago by ex-designer to the National Ballet of Spain, Paloma Vázquez de Castro. … Continue reading “Hoss Intropia Fall 2010”
Jil Sander Spring 2011
Inspired, as he said, by “seeing a girl in a ten-euro T-shirt and a couture skirt,” the genius that is Raf Simons, for his spring Jil Sander collection, played up a gorgeous derivative shape that channeled quiet elegance that had maximum impact–particularly when it came to volumes. Boxy tops with sculpted peplums? Solids, stripes and … Continue reading “Jil Sander Spring 2011”
MaxMara Spring 2011
Spare and utilitarian: two words that have never more epitomized the MaxMara aesthetic. Spring saw a runway filled with strong staple pieces–double-breasted jackets, chic shirting and color-blocked tops and classic trenchcoats–cut precisely so as to deliver a clean aesthetic. Shapes came via two silhouettes, some of which were sprinkled with polka dots and sailor stripes: … Continue reading “MaxMara Spring 2011”