A diving enthusiast himself, Riccardo Tisci looked to the sports world for inspiration this season, drawing on ski and scuba for reference. Mixing masculine and feminine, the colors referenced Bauhaus but with clean and simple results unique to Riccardo Tisci. Tailored and body-conscious silhouettes were the name of the game with Tisci’s sports redux collection: all the signature components of his aesthetic were evident, including sharp tailoring with a masculine edge, gothic lace worked this season into slip dresses, and marabou worked for two organza T-shirts with feathered chests. Slim-cut pants and short skirts featured zippered waists that were folded back, while Alpine knitted sweaters were reworked into second-skin tanks (again with the folded details). Outerwear, in subtle Skandi patterns including snowflakes and Fair Isle border patterns, flipped between the cropped biker derivatives trimmed with broadtail and the bonded satin parkas with large collars. For evening, there were high-necked lace blouses trimmed with tight ruffles across the yoke and tabard dresses cutaway at the side and paneled in fine lace. Tisci kept his color palette simple: a base note of black was punctuated with flashes of scarlet, cream and sage green while neoprene, second-skin knits, fine lace, velvet, bonded satin, marabou, super-fine organza, wool, broadtail and smooth leathers completed the textures.
