Vera Wang’s latest collection started off nude, nude, nude – gentle pantyhose-flesh tones – then segued into a rough sea of dark grays and finally splashes of orangey red hit the runway, fitting of Valentine’s Day.
We’ve been seeing a lot of structure this Fashion Week; Vera’s play on graphic architecture is countered by her trademark fluidity. She has a magical way with fabric and showcased it through chiffon, net lace, organza, techno-style bondage (found on dress and bra straps), and great big pieces of raccoon trim. The graphic prints hinted at a wild sportiness, but Vera’s abstract motif is actually the pattern of vaulted ceilings.
The drop-waist skirt – or is it a belt? Or both? – will accentuate the waistline and keep everything under wraps. Copious amounts of sheerness got the treatment of metallic appliqué and glistening, netted layers over bodices and skirts that read like delicate armor. Yes, everything was so sheer and surreal this is runway in its truest form, making for a difficult transition to retail, though Vera’s expanding edginess will garner a certain following.
The show’s coolest detail might just be the blown-away up-do – illustrating the picture of a girl fleeing from her old ways, her diaphanous skirt blowing behind her in a wind tunnel. Vera deserves credit for sending us on an intriguing adventure along with her on-the-lam character – even if it is just a fantasy.
