Handcuffs behind the back, sheer thigh-highs, and Kate Moss puffing on a cigarette: Marc’s signature “eff you” attitude is back with a vengeance (remember his naughty nurse brigade a few years ago?). Welcome to the S&M party, with catwalk serving as hotel lobby, complete with bondage, leather, corsets, masks, and, the saucy cherry on top – a real French maid with ostrich plume duster in hand. White gloves infused an “at your service!” touch, but the nature of the service is rather suspect. Inspiration came from, what Marc calls, women’s “inexplicable obsession with handbags.” Inexplicable? Hmm…Maybe he should read Bag Snob more often! Handbags or master-servant play, we all have our fetishes. And Jacobs served up a plethora of them.
Luis Buñuel’s Belle de Jour (about an afternoon hooker) meets sexed-up drill sergeant, via the caps and jodhpurs. Sure, it’s all theatrical, dramatic, and overtly sexual, but the fashion remained incredibly couture. The pairing of a patent-leather corset and sheer skirt amounted to the now-ubiquitous soft/hard juxtaposition, so it’s not quite as shocking as it seemed in seasons past. The furs were massively, well, furry, even with tightly cinched belts working hard to reign them in. But the tailored, structured coats are wearable (and there are lots to choose from), as well as a variety of crisp and clean fusions of great, flared-hem tops over large, A-line, layered-sequin skirts.
Despite the blatant eroticism and hard edges, an element of girly playfulness made a big impact. (I’m in love with the fitted jumpsuit shorts with oversized hip pockets and Peter Pan collar.) Big buttons, contrasting white collars, and large pocket flaps all revealed the little girl within the siren. And some dresses were totally conservative – the prints even tip the balance from sexy librarian to real librarian.
Bottom line: Jacobs delivered high fashion under the guise of fetishist gear – or is it the other way around? Either way, Helmut Newton would be proud (ever flip through White Women?) and this dominatrix would whip you, and make you giggle and ask for more. She also has a way enviable wardrobe.
