In a nutshell, this was a brilliantly deranged and gorgeous collection of Betty Drapers. Totally unexpected, it was a surge of creativity with a deconstructed Sixties vibe. Eat your heart out, Don. For fall, Tomas Maier presented what he called a collection poised between “restraint and exuberance.” Juxtaposing clean lines with elaborate surfaces, it aimed not for balance but for a synthesis of unlike elements, with each refined piece of clothing a wealth of detail, technique, and embellishment. The color range ran the gamut from pale yellow to deep red and included jasper, topaz, resina, fire opal, corniola, garnet, and rust, illuminated with flashes of peridot green. Last season’s tailoring has evolved, more conspicuous now in skirt suits topped with narrow anoraks or light coats. The collection encompassed a broad range of materials, from fuzzy woven wool blends to plush, dimensional woolens, waxed leather and light sleek nylons and silk. “Designing this collection was like being in a laboratory,” said Maier. “We wanted to push the boundaries, to experiment with technique and craftsmanship to an extreme degree. I felt the right canvas for this kind of innovative workmanship was a silhouette that was clean and uncomplicated.”
