Olivier Theyskens has traveled quite the journey since his first Nina Ricci show at the Tuileries in Paris. Fast forward to current times and the world is a completely different place. Theyskens is now the creative head at Theory and, in his first-ever Theyskens’ Theory runway debut, delivered an “affordable” collection that evoked his years working at Nina Ricci and Rochas. It’s amazing, when you think about it, that Theyskens relied on not one sketch or drawing for this collection. The results were decidedly Theyskens, but a tad more underground and a tad less perfect. With Theory’s resources, Theyskens was able to present his aesthetic that will be translated into clothing with wide appeal. Jeans were a main focus of the show, offered in no less than six variations from baggy and sandblasted to pajamalike and skinny. The notch-back jackets and sweeping maxi-coats also made for statement pieces that referenced Theyskens’ gothic side. Then there was a plaidlike print shown on dresses and shirts that turned out to be blueprints of cathedral buildings.
Images via Style.com