Say what you will about Marni, but one thing is certain: Consuelo Castiglioni is not afraid of a print. That was more than evident with the designer’s geometrically inclined fall show, where star shapes, stripes, and octagonal grids were shown on luxurious layers of crepe, wool, leather, and silk with the quintessential helpings of fur, natch. Inspired by contemporary dancer Martha Graham and modern architecture, Castiglioni juxtaposed elegant restraint with fast, fluid motion, applying her results using a palette of warm neutrals with touches of peach, mint and emerald. Simply put, the Marni girl has grown up. The painterly blue and red checks were still every bit fun and flirty, as was the pom-pom-edged embroidery, but the noticeable touch of bespoke and 50s sensibility with the matching coats and skirts created a beautifully dramatic silhouette, even more so on the pieces with bejeweled necklines.
