This season was a triumphant one for Roland Mouret. The London-based French designer showed his first collection since acquiring back his brand name–which meant no more “19RM” label but. Despite a change in name, there was nothing lacking in the designer’s gorgeous creations. In a way expressing his new found “freedom,” Mouret’s collection focused on a gentle new volume that skimmed and caressed the body as opposed to hugging it. With hints of a Japanese aesthetic, the designer who created the iconic Galaxy dress showed delicate winged sleeves and caped shoulders which, in chartreuse, indigo, tan and sapphire, beautifully complemented the draped necklines and modest hemlines. The pieces fell with the most beautiful of nonchalance. But he didn’t abandon his trademark structured silhouette; rather, he modernized them, by pulling them from the skin just so. It made for a tour de force in design. With Mouret it’s all about the details: witness the Clara, an LBD with a fan-pleated neckline, or the “dugmanta,” a backless dungaree in black stretch silk faille that will have the girls swooning come spring.
