Simply put: brava, Sarah Burton! In a tour de force showing that sealed her role as the late Lee Alexander McQueen’s design heir apparent, Sarah Burton managed to channel the echoes of her former mentor while gradually, without force, pushing forward the legacy of the venerable house. If she felt any pressure, it wasn’t visible at all. It was a brilliant first ready-to-wear collection for Burton that infused the house’s indie bohemian spirit and unparalleled hand-crafted detail. Dramatic, yes, but also gentle thanks to trouser suits with tailcoats, romantic silhouettes in the form of poppy-printed silk and shadow-dyed chiffon gowns–most multihued. From there things turned dramatic: ivy leaves in leather, horse-hair spines down the back of dresses and corn silk dresses in raffia.
