Inspired, as he said, by “seeing a girl in a ten-euro T-shirt and a couture skirt,” the genius that is Raf Simons, for his spring Jil Sander collection, played up a gorgeous derivative shape that channeled quiet elegance that had maximum impact–particularly when it came to volumes. Boxy tops with sculpted peplums? Solids, stripes and florals broken up on billowing tank dresses? The color palette was fabulous–and how about that reverse use of full-blown floral silk? While the separates, including jackets, narrow pants and windbreakers, weren’t as powerfully suggestive as his evening, they made their own statement–thanks in no small part to their effective clash of colors. This was another example of how Raf can seemingly so effortlessly do couture while underscoring the idea that, for spring, everything is getting longer and fuller.
