Following fall’s sublime palette cleanser of a show, in which Frida Giannini spoke softly but with significance, spring marks a dramatic return to high glamour and sheer excess–but done in a subversive way. This wasn’t the in-your-face glitter ball show Giannini has, no doubt thanks to her rock ‘n’ roll roots, been unyieldingly fond of; rather, this was about a newness developed as a result of, of all things, a recent shopping trip to Marrakech and a discovery of Berber jewelry. The results: beautiful, but cautious, ornamentation, an emphasis on the waist and fringe, La Dolce Vita style.
Vibrant in rich coppers, emeralds and amethysts, the looks just kept on comin’. This was a sultry collection–just look at the leather jackets corseted via narrow bands, laser-cut belts that dared one to eat that extra macaroon and soft but skinny pants that fell to the ankle. The finale of fabulously embellished cocktail dresses–no gowns for spring, ladies–was a rich nod to the region, what with their Moroccan gold bead embroideries, endless tiers of fringing and dip-dyed feathers.
