Snob Essentials

Emilio Pucci Spring 2011

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The hippie look is one that is well traveled this season, having made its way from New York to London and now omnipresent in Milan. Nowhere was that more evident than at Pucci, where Peter Dundas showed restrained references to Yves Saint Laurent’s peasant and safari themes but made them all his own. A Pucci show is always a fast-paced show–models race down the runway in revealing gowns, fabulously fetishistic footwear and near-perfect hair. Channeling island life, as a proper Pucci girl should, the prints were inspired by the blues and whites of Greek Cycladic architecture (he’s currently building a home there). In fact, many of the fabrics–cottons, silks and liquid jerseys–had been sent to India to be bleached, re-dyed and batik-ed to give a more lived-in, sun-and-sea-drenched appearance. The lace-up safari shirt, a classic, was reworked on a laced-front gown in a fresh blue-on-white print and repurposed for a laced-front minidress richly embroidered with blue on white, as well as dresses with plunging backs, edged in tiny, trembling pompons. Coupled with the roundabout key items for a full-on glam wardrobe–the skinny pant, plissé tie-dyed T-shirt and Pucci printed bikini–it just all worked.

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