Roland Mouret’s response to the practical, daywear dressing emphasis of the season was to investigate hybrid clothes that can be worn a multitude of ways. The look was architectural daywear, balancing austerity with sensuality while avoiding a boring minimalist silhouette. No surprise Mouret tackled his forte–sophisticatedly body-conscious–with his signature square-cut drapes and folds. For fall, Mouret introduced two new transformable hybrid pieces: the “TTD,” a tunic-top-dress and the “Carré,” a top-cum-apron skirt. Other key items–mostly awash in hues like pebble and heathered greys, matt black, plum, lilac, bois de rose, magenta, ivory and peach–included wrap skirts, draped and pinched dresses, gilets, hooded jackets and capes, shirt dresses, cascade collared biker jackets, slinky jersey maxidresses and velvet stirrup leggings. The gathered silk jersey gowns featured form-enhancing fabrications such as power mesh, double crepe and stretch wools and silks. Silver fox and astrakhan upped the glam quotient with the occasional fur moments, but the real eye-catching element was the “hood” motif, which added an air of mystery to a stellar showing.
