The front row set may have scribbled “Mad Men” in their notebooks, but Miuccia Prada’s influence was, as to be expected, beyond mere mainstream. Instead, she reworked one of her own vintage-inspired collections–one from the 90s, she said–to create the early 60s secretary look she sent down the runway Thursday (graphic videos displayed vintage beauty advice: “brush your hair 100 strokes a night”). But never one to rest on her laurels, Prada added elegant frills to make it thoroughly modern. Simple proportions paired with minimal, basic shapes emphasized the sexier side of a woman (as seen through Miuccia’s eyes).
Emphasizing a more voluptuous woman for fall–note Prada’s use of curvier models Doutzen Kroes, Catherine McNeil, Lara Stone and Miranda Kerr–the focus of this highly saleable collection was on a real woman’s hips and the illusion of breasts (be it a woman’s own natural bosom or the appearance of such thanks to knitted ruffles at the bust–some in bright blue that drew immediate attention). This collection had plenty of subtle sex appeal.
A-line silhouettes and tailored sheaths, all cut at the knee, made for a stylish, yet conservative, assortment of swing jackets, full-skirted “prom” dresses, cigarette pants and straight-cut coats–with a natural emphasis on strong knitwear and, in particular, cable-stitched knit coats, dresses and skirts. And how about that color palette? Gorgeous shades of camel, merlot and black juxtaposed mustard, pine and sky blue all translated into such fabulous textures as plasticized leather, wool, silk and mink utilized in a myriad of painterly crosshatch checks and zigzag brushstrokes prints.
Accessories, meanwhile, came forth in the form of square-toed loafers with a high block heel, pointed courts with thin leather bows and skinny heel and a delightful lower kitten heel. Cat’s-eye opticals, knitted headbands, patent leather gloves with contrast piping, skinny patent bow belts, ribbed knee-high football socks, ruffled tights and hand-held bags rounded out this decidedly girly, retro-chic collection.
