P is for Peplum: that seemed to be the mantra for Consuelo Castiglioni, who, on top form with her fall collection, mixed a painterly palette with the expected quirky prints and offbeat downplayed silhouettes that have become her signature. This collection should do well by Marni’s legion of followers because of its downplayed chic attitude combined with simple boxy shapes but never lacking emphasis on the hip. While the 3-D rounded peplums paired with otherwise square suits and separates were standouts, a true key look was a simple fly-front coat. Dresses were simple tunic shapes, to the knee or ankle-skimming, with ruched and gathered details while low V-neck tops and knits or simple tee-shaped tops completed the look. Don’t expect Marni to be shroud in mourning anytime soon; fall, while still upbeat with color, was just a notch toned down: mushroom, greyed bois de rose and caramel teamed with quirky bights like chlorophyll green, poppy red and mustard and soft accents of pale peppermint green, blush pink, silver and lemon.
