John Galliano is in fine form for fall/winter, expounding on his January couture show to deliver a collection that harked on ever-so familiar territory for the showman. Sending out a historically inspired collection best described as “equestrian-meets-Marie Antoinette-in-the-boudoir romp” and inspired by 18th-century libertine poet John Wilmot and second Earl of Rochester, it was the perfect excuse for his signature light-as-air ruffled sheers and dressage style tailoring. Indeed, equestrian met historical romance (more references to legacy) in elegant ways–note the silhouette of fitted waists contrasted with a flurry of boudoir ruffles. The color palette–rustic browns and rich oxblood as well as a range of soft greys and rain-washed pastels–wasn’t the only note of heritage dressing here, however. The key look was the redingote (or the French take on the classic English “riding coat), whereby the trench and tailored-waisted jackets were worked with insouciant ease and paired with cropped jodhpurs or casually thrown over a myriad of ruffled skirts and sensuous feather-light sheer dresses. Knitwear was a strong suit with oversized slouchy knits and jackets trimmed with boudoir slotted ribbons and frissons of fur, while simple silk “Johnny Depp” blouses and signature bias-cut chiffon show stoppers appeared for evening. And, naturally, leather was a heavy emphasis in everything from redingotes to ruffled empire dresses, contrasted with delicate chiffon, lace and velvet. Country checks and brushed mohair added a rustic touch and furs came with light-as-air feathered treatments while a delicate Fragonard-style floral print kept things pretty. All in all, it was femininity all the way, with eyelet slotted ribbons, scalloped edges and ruffles, gilded spangles and softly draped necklines. As for the accessories, while footwear came in the form of over-the-knee boots toughened up wafting chiffon, jodhpur boots and riding boots–think tall, ladies–the accessories were truly the crème de la crème: simply exquisite saddlery-detailed bags and delightful miniature fur bags are sure to be big hits this fall.
