Simply put: it’s amazing what the right designer can do for a once staid brand. Phoebe Philo read the mood of the moment and presented a perfectly judged collection of simple wardrobe pieces, full of covetable no-nonsense outerwear and go-anywhere separates. There were no frills or fripperies–just well-designed clothes that any woman–particularly those in professional capacities–will want to wear. Philo’s look for Celine is morphing into the genre of timeless fashion, and there’s nothing with keeping things simple and straightforward–as long as they’re done masterfully. With a stable palette of hues (navy, black, camel, grey and winter white), outerwear proved to be the strong suit from Philo, with effortlessly simple lean-but-boxy coats and jackets with funnel necks and subtle asymmetric fastenings–all in no nonsense luxe fabrics from cashmere coatweights to bouclé and shearling, glossy leathers and silk crepe de chine.
It’s no surprise that she showed at the Tennis Club de Paris, the same venue Helmut Lang used upon his return to Paris from New York, when one considers Philo’s eye for clean, simple shapes. Trenchcoats came in glossy luxe leather and the season’s hot item, the cape, in covetable winter white shearling. Separates also featured strongly with simple loner-line wrap skirts and the perfect ankle-skimming cigarette pant teamed with leather tanks and tees or classic white blouses. Knits had a casual appeal with forgiving and wearable tunic shapes or fine-gauge polo necks, and for evening the ultimate LBD came in matt-shine black with glossy paillette trim. Subtle details abound, including contrast facing, leather pockets and edging and gold buttons while accessories were spare and minimal: high-heeled loafers and ankle straps, as well as elegant knee-high riding boots paired with simple notecases and no-nonsense clutches.
