Sharp. Sleek. Simple. How Francisco Costa described the nuances of his show translated beautifully onto the runway thanks, in no small part, to a trio of supermodels–Stella [Tennant], Kristen [McMenamy] and Kirsty [Hume]–that represented the age of minimalism in its most maximalist form. Yes, the glorious trio of yesteryear’s supermodels walked the runway exclusively alongside their 17-year-old counterparts, thus illustrating Costa’s prowess at being able to design for the power woman of all ages. In a decidedly conservative lineup of looks (translation: nearly every piece was wearable straight off the runway), Costa had a hit on his hands. Simple shapes, yes, but constructed and cut in a way as to project speed and aerodynamics.
The show began and ended with a custom-designed light and installation by Alva Noto (aka Carsten Nicolai) that mimicked the finale Lurex gowns that had the front row–Kerry Washington, Kate Bosworth, Helena Christensen, Isabel Lucas and Naomi Watts–all aflutter. Technically unparalleled, Costa’s lines were cut severe but chic, sparingly but with volume. The bubble shape of spring was replaced by a noticeably more molded silhouette–one that grazed the arms, back and torso ever just so. While high necklines and an overall covered-up projection, there was nothing overtly sexy, let alone vulgar, about this collection. Black and white dominated the collection save for two cobalt blue looks, making for an ethereal exercise in the stark purity the brand’s legacy is built on. Accessories were kept to a minimum, but shoes came in the form of smart metal-heeled booties with rubber platforms that will have Costa’s ladies pounding the pavement both in self-assurance and style.
