Massimiliano Giornetti had a lot of pressure on him to deliver in what was his maiden womenswear collection since taking over complete design reign at Ferragamo. Thankfully, he looked to the Florentine house’s rich DNA and made an astute move in a season putting tangible weight behind heritage and classicism, thereby restoring luster and luxury to the house. Treating each look as its own sculpture–smoothing and refining angles as he progresses–Giornetti, who for six years helmed Ferragamo men’s wear, delivered a sophisticated 70s vibe replete with masculine tailoring (wide-leg pants, belted waists) and such key items as short suits, pleat-front culottes, leather mini-shorts, equestrian blanket capes and ponchos, ballerina-length skirts, utility shirts and form-fitting sweater dresses. For evening, glitter knit maxidresses, gold-beaded tunics worn with tapered pants and halter-neck lamé gowns made for a strong effort. Heavy gold metal embroideries and trademark leather trims aside, the rich use of materials–ranging from suede and broadtail to herringbone and knits–were warmly massaged thanks to a rich autumnal palette of chestnut tan, camel, ochre and bitter chocolate brown illuminated with bronze, copper and gold metallics, while sage and khaki greens added depth. Accessories continue to be king at Ferragamo, so shoes came in the form of square-toed heeled brogues, T-bar shoes and metal-plated wooden heels while leathergoods included equestrian-influenced belts, long-strapped shoulder bags, sizeable clutch bags and oversized saddle bags.
